Sunday, November 18, 2012

Cuffed capris and a new take on a favorite

Before you tell me that it's absolute folly to make capri pants during a New England fall, I'll tell you this: I hemmed and hawed over 3 (!!) muslins for skinny pants and finally just bit the bullet and made these without a muslin.  I was sold on the diagonal front pockets.  What an interesting design element.  I made these in a very soft charcoal gray doubleknit so it's like wearing sweat pants.  I should have interfaced the front pocket more than I did, the upper corners pucker (so no closeups, sorry.)  They are actually the perfect length for wearing with snow boots to commute to work, as I learned a few weeks ago when we had early season snow.

You've also seen this shirt before, in parts.  The body is Burda 10-2009-105, and the collar stand and upper collar are Burda 09-2009-105.  Does Burda have some rule that pattern #105 be a standard button down shirt?

Pant: Burda 02-2009-117.  Shirt: Burda 10-2009-105 and Burda 09-2009-105. Lee is in the window to my left, trying to photo bomb me.

You can see some of the pocket pucker going on here, but I'm not too bothered by it.

Can you see where I cut my shirt yoke off grain (secret talent of mine)?  I didn't think so.  Speaking of yokes, I'm pretty happy with how the bake yoke on the pant aligned.

I love these round buttons and think they make the shirt.
Some sewing details:
I learned in sewing the three pant muslins before jumping into this pair that a curved waistband makes all the difference.  I liked the pant legs of one muslin but hated how it fitted in the waist -- it has a straight waistband gapped and pulled.  This pant has a default straight waistband but I figured out how to draft my own curved waistband!  Magic!

Along the same tune, I swapped out the straight collar stand on Burda 10-2009-105 (see my first take in striped shirting) for the curved collar stand and the smaller upper collar from Burda 09-2009-105 (made up twice before in cotton paisley) and am happy with the result.  I have the close fit of 10-2009-105 but the more flattering collar from 09-2009-105.  I also did not shorten the sleeves like I did no my first version of 10-2009-105, and it's a much more comfortable shirt to wear.  Lesson in over-fitting learned.

11 comments:

  1. I am really impressed with your pants and your shirt. I am about to attempt pants one more time using a burda pattern. They are not my strong point.

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  2. Melissa you did a fabulous job on the pants fit and the shirt is perfect.

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  3. Love both pieces! I've made those pants too, and the pockets were what drew me to them as we'll. they're a fun feature. The shirt is lovely and you're making me want to go troll my 2009 Burdas for new inspiration.

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  4. Your pants turned out great. I love the interesting seam lines. The whole silhouette is nice.

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  5. These look really cute! They sound comfy as well.

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  6. The whole outfit is gorgeous! So stylish...you look fab!

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  7. These these are great! And if they work with heels in the office and snow boots on the commute, then they are not just cute, but practical too!

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  8. You just can't go wrong with Burda pants for fit, these look great!

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  9. What a great outfit--classic, beautifully fitted. And with the comfy-cozy pants, you've got a trifecta going on!

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  10. Great outfit. Your pants are especially well fitted.

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  11. I love the pants. Looks like you got a great fit and they are very stylish! I nominated you for a blog award. Check it out:

    http://byrdiecouture.blogspot.com/2012/12/do-you-want-good-news-or.html

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