Friday, November 23, 2012

Boatneck dress, revisited

I never wore the first version of this dress, made up in glen plaid, because although I fixed the hem I realized that the problem with the skirt was that the front and back pieces were not to match.  I shortened the skirt by 2" but the tapering in the pattern meant that I needed to pay attention to whether the front piece length matched the back piece length.  If you look at the photos, you'll see there's rippling because I cut the front piece longer than the back.  I never wore the dress because I hated how the skirt draped.

Here's my new version of Burda 08-2009-128, in an electric blue wool crepe from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I bought the fabric about 3 years ago, intending to make a Roland Mouret galaxy dress knockoff but time passed and here we are.  I've never sewn with wool crepe before, and really liked the spongy softness and how easy it was to work with.  It's very easy to wear, and this dress is super comfortable.

The dress has a little more ease in it than I'm used to wearing, but I think it works for a winter dress.  I'll be able to layer a dress shirt underneath when it's really cold.

Burda 08-2009-128, front
Burda 08-2009-128, side

Burda 08-2009-128, back.  I forgot how much I like using an invisible zipper, insertion and lining is a cinch!

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Cuffed capris and a new take on a favorite

Before you tell me that it's absolute folly to make capri pants during a New England fall, I'll tell you this: I hemmed and hawed over 3 (!!) muslins for skinny pants and finally just bit the bullet and made these without a muslin.  I was sold on the diagonal front pockets.  What an interesting design element.  I made these in a very soft charcoal gray doubleknit so it's like wearing sweat pants.  I should have interfaced the front pocket more than I did, the upper corners pucker (so no closeups, sorry.)  They are actually the perfect length for wearing with snow boots to commute to work, as I learned a few weeks ago when we had early season snow.

You've also seen this shirt before, in parts.  The body is Burda 10-2009-105, and the collar stand and upper collar are Burda 09-2009-105.  Does Burda have some rule that pattern #105 be a standard button down shirt?

Pant: Burda 02-2009-117.  Shirt: Burda 10-2009-105 and Burda 09-2009-105. Lee is in the window to my left, trying to photo bomb me.

You can see some of the pocket pucker going on here, but I'm not too bothered by it.

Can you see where I cut my shirt yoke off grain (secret talent of mine)?  I didn't think so.  Speaking of yokes, I'm pretty happy with how the bake yoke on the pant aligned.

I love these round buttons and think they make the shirt.
Some sewing details:
I learned in sewing the three pant muslins before jumping into this pair that a curved waistband makes all the difference.  I liked the pant legs of one muslin but hated how it fitted in the waist -- it has a straight waistband gapped and pulled.  This pant has a default straight waistband but I figured out how to draft my own curved waistband!  Magic!

Along the same tune, I swapped out the straight collar stand on Burda 10-2009-105 (see my first take in striped shirting) for the curved collar stand and the smaller upper collar from Burda 09-2009-105 (made up twice before in cotton paisley) and am happy with the result.  I have the close fit of 10-2009-105 but the more flattering collar from 09-2009-105.  I also did not shorten the sleeves like I did no my first version of 10-2009-105, and it's a much more comfortable shirt to wear.  Lesson in over-fitting learned.