Sunday, May 20, 2012

Not a blouse: Burda 09-2009-118

Do you have a favorite Burda issue?  Turns out that I do.  This is the fourth item I've sewn from 09-2009.  What can I say?  It's a hit.

This is a button front, tie collared shirt with (well done) poofy sleeves.  The sleeves are my favorite part of the design, pleating the fabric and then letting it out in cuffed bells.  The silk is a animal print habotai from Fabric.com that Lee commented as a bit old lady looking (I don't agree, but still have yet to wear this.)  If ever a shirt was going to be called a blouse (I never call my shirts blouses), this would be it.  It's very feminine and floaty.  I could see making this again in a dotted swiss or a lawn, but the feel would be very different... the shape would be very exaggerated.

I love the fabric, but I hesitate to sew with it again.  I sandwiched it between two sheets of tissue paper before cutting, which helped keep the fabric from sliding around as I cut.  But sewing it was another issue.  The sandwiching was not perfect, so I was just off-grain enough that the fabric not just slid all over the place, but stretched and pulled in strange ways as I sewed.  As always, my iron is my best friend and without it I would have thrown this out the window.  But because of the slight off grain cut, the shirt only sits well on me if I am standing still with perfect posture.    The fabric doesn't have much give and I can feel it twisting a little when I move.

Despite the face I am making, I am quite happy with how this shirt turned out.

The back is shaped with darts. And the fabric pulls a little strangely on my shoulders if I don't stand up straight.
And a close up of the sleeve.  I love how the pleating pulled the animal print together in blocks of color and print.

15 comments:

  1. Beautiful blouse- love the style and print! Too bad it's off grain. It still looks great though! I've had that problem before with the slinky, slippery fabrics. I've been thinking about starching the fabric next time before I cut... don't know if it will help but it might. Have never tried the tissue paper trick- thanks for the tip!

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  2. Beautiful blouse and lovely fabric. Not at all old lady in my opinion, and it suits this pattern perfectly. You did a great job with the slippery fabric and it looks lovely on.

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  3. They are cute sleeves! Funny how some Burda issues are filled with designs you love and others never get a second glance.

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  4. Beautiful blouse! I agree with Dilliander, that this blouse is not "old lady" at all... Looks great!

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  5. No way is this blouse "old ladyish." I really like the contrast of a fierce animal print sewn up in a soft feminine style. You look great!

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  6. Absolutely love that style. Looking for something similar myself. Fab

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  7. You're right, the sleeve details are great!

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  8. I think that fabric is beautiful, though I'm sure it was a bit of an imp to work with.

    Looks good, even if it feels funny!

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  9. That is really pretty and I love the fabric. My favorite Burda issue is 2/2008.

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  10. Lovely blouse! I think the fabric is just perfect for this.

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  11. I think the fabric is gorgeous and the sleeve detail on the shirt (or blouse!) is so interesting. Hope you can ignore the off grain twisting effect enough to get some wear out of this.

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  12. I really like the fabric, and I think the finished blouse is gorgeous. I'd wear it, slightly twisty fabric or not. :-)

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  13. Love this! That is the way to do a poofy sleeve. I don't even remember this pattern--I'll have to look it up.

    Sewing silk charmeuse is an exercise in grain frustration. I haven't tried the starching trick yet, but I'm going to get to it eventually.

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  14. Love this. The fabric is gorgeous. Well done getting through the grain issues.

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  15. This is a beautiful blouse indeed! and it must feel heavenly on, being made out of silk. Nice job!

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