Sunday, April 24, 2011

Burda 11-2008-121, slouchy trousers

I spent a lot more time on these pants than I thought I would.  First, it was a stop-and-go project because I was in and out of town.  Second, there is something about this version of the pant where the back waistband keeps slipping so that it sags on my butt.

This is making them fit differently than the muslin.  The fit is affecting two things:
  1. The pant legs hang more loosely in the back because the pants aren't as fitted in the waist and butt.  I kept moving the hooks and eyes until if moved any further the fly would start to twist.
  2. I had to hem them a half inch shorter to make up for this, and playing with the hem took a lot of time.
I chose this light gray wool with stretch specifically because I figured I'd need the stretch to fit my his comfortably.  Maybe it's the lycra that is causing the difference in fit?  (Doesn't really make sense.)  I wonder if I should move in the hooks and eyes to make up for this?  It seems like a cheap fix but then the front fly will be wonky.

It's a gray day here in Cambridge, hence the pictures with flash.


Back.  The photos of my muslin show that the pants were more fitted in the hips, which is what I'd prefer.  I am also seeing that my right leg might be slightly shorter than my left leg.

Side.  The waistband doesn't look like it's sitting low in the back but it sure feels like it.


  1. I love those trousers. They look wonderful on you!! I wish I was better at making pants, but everytime I attempt a pair, I mess them up. I will just have to try again.

  2. That is a great pair of pants! I really like them. I'm not all that experienced with fitting pants, but I do know that fabric with lycra can behave very differently than fabric without it. It's highly likely that it is the cause of the difference from your fitting muslin.

  3. I love that type of waistband, but oh does it give me a fit. Looks like you are doing a real nice job there.

  4. The waistband looks good- it's sitting smoothly without gaping. The fit through the legs seems a little baggy, but when I checked your DKNY inspiration photo I realized that you were going for a more slouchy fit. Maybe this style ultimately doesn't agree with you? The lycra could certainly be a factor, they may tighten up again once you've washed them. In the end, they look very comfortable and wearable, even if they differ from your usual style. I'm impressed by anyone who can construct wearable trousers!

  5. Fabulous!! I am completely in love with that wide, curved waistband. It is so flattering.

  6. I agree - I think you achieved the right fit - they're supposed to be slouchy! Maybe you're just not expecting that? I dunno, I like them! Pair them with a white button-up shirt, tucked in, and you'll look super chic!

  7. I think you're quite the queen of trouser making. I agree with Tasia above about what to wear them with.

  8. These pants look great. The pants I had most trouble with had lycra in them...I suspect it changes the drape of the fabric, particularly because sections of the crotch curve are cut on the bias.

  9. I think they look great! If they're too uncomfortable to wear, maybe slip some wide elastic into the waistband? Not enough to cause visible gathers, just so that it feels secure? I'm a fan of this sort of invisible elastic failsafe in waistbands.