Monday, April 26, 2010

A raincoat

Two firsts: a Patrones pattern, and sewing with rainwear. I'd tried sewing rubber backed microfiber last year to make a raincoat and it was a disaster. This stuff is a poly woven raincoating from Gorgeous Fabrics, and it was easy to press and sew. So much so that I'm thinking of making another raincoat, in a traditional trenchcoat style. If I do that, I'll be sure to leave seam allowances on my pattern pieces. It was really hard to keep from pinning outside the seam allowances since there aren't any on the Patrones patterns, and I didn't want to pierce my fabric (kind of defeats the purpose of having waterproof fabric to make holes in it!)

Patrones doesn't have a website, but here is a photo of the design.
I made a muslin, and decided agains the gathered sleeves. The cuff turned out to be tighter than depicted, more like a shirt cuff than a jacket cuff. (I also briefly had it in my head that this could be a second coat if I underlined it, but I think it's a bit loud for my tastes.)
The thing that I love about this pattern, and that I think I'll love about all the other patterns in the magazine are that I didn't have to make any alterations at all! Normally, I have to take shoulders in, shorten the bustline, narrow the ease in the upper arm, shorten the sleeve, shorten the waistline, bring up the hem a few inches... but the proportions were perfect straight off the tracing sheet. I was really surprised, and then learned that Patrones Joven is designed with teenagers in mind. Now, don't you all go running out and buy all the Patrones Joven! I get dibs!

That said, I don't think I'd recommend this magazine to absolute beginners unless you are fluent in Spanish and have a lot of patience to ease the curved pattern pieces together. I used Google Translate to translate the instructions and while the tool was really cool (it was fixing its grammar as I typed!) there definitely was a lot lost in translation. Regarding the ease, I had to really adjust the sleeve cap and carefully clip the neckline and collar pieces to make them fit. That said, I love how the sleeves and shoulders fit me. I am so in love with the sleeves that I now want to make more coats from this issue, and hate all the coats I've made with patterns from other companies.

Because I wasn't crazy about the sleeves, I switched out the sleeves with another coat in the issue for simple straight sleeves. I like the stand-up collar, but will likely wear it open, as in the right photo.

The lining is also from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Here are some detail photos. The magazine would have you do a lot of decorative hand top stitching, but that's not really my bag. I actually wanted the coat to be as minimalist as possible, so did very little topstitching, all close to the edges with the purpose of reinforcing seams or holding the facing in place. I used the machine to bartack the epaulettes, though I suppose I could have hand tacked them for a cleaner look.

And finally, my little secret... I ran out of the buttons that I was using, and so am using a different button on the collar. I've seen this on some of Lee's Paul Smith jackets, and I figure that if Paul Smith can do this and make it look fresh and fun, I can do the same.

18 comments:

  1. What a fabulous coat - you've done such a great job, well done.
    I have often thought I would like to make a raincoat but wasn't quite sure where to get the fabric. Thanks for the link to Gorgeous Fabrics - do you recall the name of the fabric?

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  2. Adorable and fabulous!! Nice work! Isn't it nice to find a pattern that fits you so well. Congrats on all fronts!

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  3. Wooow! I'm in love with the dotted one!!!
    You did a great job on both. The pattern is really lovely.

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  4. It's wonderful! I love everything about that coat! Hehe... I like the polka dot one, too. If you don't want you could send it my way... ;)

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  5. @arny, here is a link to the raincoating, there are still 24 yards left:
    http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=7080

    @Barbara and Angela, you guys are funny! Angela, the coat is unlined and still needs underlining... are you still interested?

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  6. I love this. I need to make a rain/trench coat that is water resistant...this is the perfect coat. Of course I have no time to sew anything right now (finishing my MS thesis manuscript, getting ready to defend)...but maybe in the future.
    It's so nice to get feedback on a pattern from a person of the same size - now I can add Patrones to the list of options.
    I think today I will get your pants pattern ready, as I have to go into the lab for some testing and that means no good blocks of time to get any real work done.

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  7. Gorgeous jacket! Congrats on your conquer or a Patrones pattern! It is super cute and stylish- you really did a great job.

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  8. I love this coat! Which issue or pattern number is it? I've never used any of those patterns, but would be willing to give it a go, based on your beautiful coat.

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  9. Wow gorgeous coat, it looks amazing. I am really impressed you sewed that from Patrones, I haven't dared venture beyond the most basic of basics yet.

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  10. These are fabulous. The print one is so cheery for a rainy day, but I like the military-ish, refined look of the neutral gray one. Awesome job on both! Great detailing.

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  11. I love that coat and gray is my color too. You did an excellent job and thanks for the link.

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  12. What a great raincoat! I agree that you totally need to finish out the print one. It's adorable!

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  13. Can I just say that I'm jealous!!!

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  14. What a very fabulous raincoat...I love that lining!

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  15. Oooh, your coat looks fantastic! But I can't believe you used Amy Butler for a *muslin* :) Finish that one up too- it's adorable on you :D Great job with both of them.

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