Thursday, July 26, 2012

Vogue 1127 Muslin Parade

This is my first time re-grading a pattern (down from a 8-10-12 to a 6) and doing a full bust adjustment.  So I made sure to sew up a muslin to make sure the fit was all right given all the pattern changes I made.  I've also been working at this in fits and starts for the last month, which means it took eons because there were so many steps.  It took forever to regrade the pattern, petitify it and then figure out the full bust adjustment because the pattern pieces weren't easy to figure out.  Then, because there are 14 pieces to cut out it took forever to get all the pieces cut and then stitched together.

I'm pretty happy with the result and will make this dress in real fabric.  I am debating a blue-gray tropical wool or a crisp gingham.  Maybe I will make both!

Lee says I should wear this to work tomorrow, or try selling it some hipster.  It's made from old bedsheets and odds and ends.  Is this really what hipsters wear? 

Now, for my horrible, low contrast, indoor lighting at night photos...

Muslin front.  I'm especially happy about how well the bust fits.  The waist is in the right place.

From the side.

From the back.  The peplum has a pleat at the center seam and the neckline is high in the back.  The zipper is poochy not because of the back bodice pieces but because I set it in slightly crooked.  This isn't sewing perfection, it's a muslin, people!

You can see the high backed neckline here as well.

Lastly, here is my full bust adjustment.  I took the piece that had the bust point marked on it, slashed and spread it 3/4" and added a dart that ended 1" from the bust point.  I am sure that there are many other ways to do this, possibly more elegantly, but this worked for me.

Vogue 1157 full bust adjustment
And in case you can't make it out underneath the pattern, here's the pattern photo for reference.  The bodice is fitted but not too much so.  I have debated making the fit closer in my version, but decided not to.  Partly because I think I've gotten close enough, and partly because (I'm not going to lie) I'm too lazy to go through the pattern drafting process again.
Vogue 1157, Tracey Reese pattern envelope photos


  1. This looks like it is going to be very cute when you make it up. Congrats on great pattern grading / tweaking.

  2. This is going to be gorgeous! I think you are wise to stop where you are with the muslin. It's so easy to "over fit" and find the that clothes look great when you are standing still, arms at your side, but that actually, it's not comfortable to actually wear the clothes, lol.

  3. Congrats. Look forward to seeing it.

  4. Wow! That was no mean feat, working all that lot out, and then it actually fitting! Great job.

    I've never noticed this pattern before, but I think it's really cool. You'll look great in it.

    And I agree wholeheartedly with Karin: it's incredibly easy to over fit, which is why most of my home-made things are hard to do anything in!

  5. Wow, this project is quite the undertaking!!! I love your muslin (I'm a believer in using them myself). It's of you to use sheets and such. Can't wait to see the finished product!!!!

  6. All this work is going to pay off. You have the makings of a beautiful dress!

  7. Your dress will be lovely. It is a gorgeous pattern.

  8. Even in hipster muslin this is awesome! I hate doing complicated projects, but then I am jealous of people who are willing to go to the trouble because then you get awesome results.

  9. I recognized the pattern beneath all the patchwork. It's going to be be lovely made up in fashion fabric. Yes patchwork was popular back in the early 70's, probably before you were born But people who wore it who would be in their 60's now and probably cringe at the memory.

  10. Great job on the pattern grading. I'm about to grade a jacket and would like to know if you have anything to share in particular about your experience. You picked a very ambitious project to grade! :)