Patrones 285 12 translation

There appear to be a few things lost in Google translation (double gather from aplomb anyone?), but this is better than any of my guesses.  I am saving these instructions here to refer to when I make a second muslin.  The first muslin, which I cut in size 38, was too small.  I'll try a size 42, but I think I will end up splitting the difference with a size 40.  I've found that fabric choice makes a difference with this.  My muslin was an old flannel sheet and the front "volante" (Spanish) or "calipers" as the translation would have my believe it is (I will call it a "flounce") sits like a big fat 70s tie.

Patrones 285 #12.  This pose isn't even cute.  Don't we all wish we knew what this shirt really looks like?

I think it's a more tame version of this shirt (285 #8), cap sleeves and smaller front ruffle and slit  (this slit is J. Lo worthy!)

Sew front calipers separately and closed sides. Sew center seam raglan sleeves separately, link the two right sides together, sew base from sign to signE F, turn and sew a fabric sleeve to the armhole, according to EF signals. Join ruffles and sew right sides together outside, cut a little seam, turn and place on front neckline of the garment that has sleeves, according to signal B to end.Form a loop of the same gender and baste on extreme right front neckline. Fold right sides neck and close ends up signal to turn and have a double gather from aplomb up behind center taking the two fabrics, place neck to neck tensing the gathers, baste. Apply on body sleeveless neckline and front opening to signal B,right sides together, sew around the neck fixing and holding the front wheel, folding body and squint into the fabric of the two armholes from side to EF signs,picketing in the same signs of the inner body and place the cloth into the armholes, screwing up the sleeves sewn inside the armholes being subject lining. Loose hemming, button sewing. Cut circles of different size tiles in the same genre, hold all three with double stitching in a circle in the center, forming a loop of thread behind and buttoning on the same button of the garment.

Not a blouse: Burda 09-2009-118

Do you have a favorite Burda issue?  Turns out that I do.  This is the fourth item I've sewn from 09-2009.  What can I say?  It's a hit.

This is a button front, tie collared shirt with (well done) poofy sleeves.  The sleeves are my favorite part of the design, pleating the fabric and then letting it out in cuffed bells.  The silk is a animal print habotai from Fabric.com that Lee commented as a bit old lady looking (I don't agree, but still have yet to wear this.)  If ever a shirt was going to be called a blouse (I never call my shirts blouses), this would be it.  It's very feminine and floaty.  I could see making this again in a dotted swiss or a lawn, but the feel would be very different... the shape would be very exaggerated.

I love the fabric, but I hesitate to sew with it again.  I sandwiched it between two sheets of tissue paper before cutting, which helped keep the fabric from sliding around as I cut.  But sewing it was another issue.  The sandwiching was not perfect, so I was just off-grain enough that the fabric not just slid all over the place, but stretched and pulled in strange ways as I sewed.  As always, my iron is my best friend and without it I would have thrown this out the window.  But because of the slight off grain cut, the shirt only sits well on me if I am standing still with perfect posture.    The fabric doesn't have much give and I can feel it twisting a little when I move.

Despite the face I am making, I am quite happy with how this shirt turned out.

The back is shaped with darts. And the fabric pulls a little strangely on my shoulders if I don't stand up straight.

And a close up of the sleeve.  I love how the pleating pulled the animal print together in blocks of color and print.