Know when to fold 'em (Vogue 1221 and 1304)

I'm the the rebound from a sewing failure - I tried sewing Vogue 1221 (see my first fail here) which just didn't fit although I remade it in a size 6.  It was saggy in the bust, and kind of wide in the hips and the front drape didn't work no matter how much I fiddled with it.  I think there's a reason why the envelope photo shows the model with her hands on her hips.

Maybe V1221 would have worked out OK if I could figure out a way to spend the day holding my dress in place.

Here we have my muslined bodice of the LiaLia dress (Vogue 1304) that I liked so much about a year ago.  I don't think that this is a go.  I still think this is a cute dress, and the alteration to make it work would be pretty easy.  As it is, the seam under the bust falls under my bust, but the top of the bodice... well, I'm sure you're all grateful I'm wearing a bra.  This would be a simple princess seam full bust adjustment, but I'm not sure I'm sold on making this dress.  Maybe for a winter formal event?  It's very close-fitting, boned and lined.  All I can think of if I were to go through the trouble of making it is... sticky sausage casing.  Granted, it's not hot and humid all year long.  Maybe I will adjust the pattern and test it out so that it's ready to go if I want a winter fancy-dress.

Sorry for the blurry Myspace style phone photos.  Sometimes it's not worth the trouble to get the camera out.

Back

I think the benefit of making muslins is that it gives me a good idea of fit (even thought it doesn't always work out - as in the case of Vogue 1221) and have a better idea of what I'm getting into with the finished garment.  I didn't realize that the LiaLia dress is self lined and boned (I don't read the back of the envelope, just like I don't read the introductions in books) or that my b00bs would be hanging out until I put the muslin together.  They're kind of mashed in and up, which I guess I should have picked up on in the envelope photo.

See, it is a cute dress.  Just not what I'm looking for right now.

Separates parade

I've been sewing, and lax at blogging.  I feel like there's a tradeoff between sewing and blogging about it (I definitely enjoy seeing others posts about what they're sewing) as in, I only have so much time to sew and I'd rather sew than write about it.  The problem, though, is that I forget what I've sewn.  I need to start keeping notes on what I muslin up (and doesn't work) as well as what I've sewn that does work.  This weekend I wanted to make a second pair of cropped pants and couldn't remember what pattern I'd used.  So, here I am.

There's something in this post for everyone.  I've covered the big 3 (though McCall is new territory for me!) and Burda, all in a variety of separates.

I changed my closet over from winter to spring/summer today, so it made sense to catalog as much as I could before I put it away.  There are some things that are in the wash, so didn't make it into this blog entry.  There were also several things that I didn't blog from last summer that didn't make it into this summer's wardrobe - it's really something what you can learn about fit in one year, and I'm not going to settle for wearing pants that don't have a curved waistband anymore.

 New Favorite skinnies: Burda 02-2010-111

A few notes on these skinnies: I keep thinking they're in 05-2010, but now I should remember they're in 02-2010.  These are very sleek because they don't have a fly front.  I don't know why I was so in loved with the fly front, it's a lot of work.  These are so easy to put together!  They have a side zip, and I think I've mastered my method of inserting a lapped side zip (which was trickier than I thought it would be, as there's a curve in the side) and the top of the zip gets a little exposed by the facing.  I've become a fan of the lapped zip, which pays off because I have like a billion zippers that I bought in bulk from eBay a few years ago.

Top: Gray tropical wool top with flounce (BurdaStyle 12-2010-121), Floral non-stretch twill cropped skinnies I (BurdaStyle 02-2010-111)

A few notes on the top: I haven't worn this very much.  I thought I would like it a lot more, but I think it's telling that I haven't figured out what to wear it with.  I think part of the problem is that it's a top that should be worn alone, but it's too warm for spring or summer and doesn't suit being layered under a sweater in the winter.  The winters here don't suit going sweaterless, so I don't know that I'm going to wear this very much next year either.

Top: Peplum in floral stretch polyester of unknown origin (Vogue 8815 with bodice view B and sleeves view C), Tomato red cropped skinnies II (BurdaStyle 02-2010-111)

 

A few notes on the top: I graded down from size 8 to size 6.  The bust point is a little wonky with my amateur grading job, and I need to fix the loop at the back neck (hopefully you didn't notice), and I hate making repairs.  This fabric is a mystery fabric from FabricMart, and it's really grown on me.  It doesn't wrinkle and is very soft, stretchy, and comfortable.  I am not crazy about the length of these sleeves.  I think that 3/4 length sleeves would be more flattering for this style, but when I sewed this in December, I knew that I would want long sleeves to layer with.  I don't know whether I will sew view C, though I like that style on the envelope... it just turned out like a tent on me, whereas views A and B are far more wearable.  I'm not sure whether I will sew this again, I was annoyed that the pattern did not include a bias strip pattern piece to cut a facing for the neckline - I used pre-made bias from my stash, but I do like a matchy-matchy facing when possible.

Top: Poly-charmeuse abstract floral Grown-up T-shirt II (Butterick 5561 view A) and Cropped Skinnies II (BurdaStyle 02-2010-111)

A few notes about this top: First of all, I have no idea why I'm so blurry in this top.  Maybe the camera just didn't know what to do with so much shimmer?  I will try to re-take these photos because I love the fabric (you can still get some from Gorgeous Fabrics - Abstract Floral Charmeuse), and think it was a perfect match for this top, even though it was absolutely uncooperative to cut. 
You can see Grown-up T-shirt I here.

 Top: Teal wool double knit peplum (McCall 6754) and Cropped Skinnies II

About this top: I coveted a similar cut top at Anthropologie last year, so when I saw this pattern, I had to have it.  I cut a size 6 and used a remnant from this dress.  I love this top, and think that a heavy knit is key to getting a flouncy peplum, but am not sure that I will want to wear it when it's really hot and humid (it is wool, after all!)  I'm on the hunt for cotton or rayon ponte, but it seems every where I look for knits, the trend is slub or tissue weight knits.  I am also not sure what I will wear this with, it's a bit much with these red pants.

Getting out of my comfort zone: shorts.  Burda 05-2010-136

Note: I don't wear shorts.  I just don't.  I've only one other pair of shorts that aren't running shorts, and I've learned that sometimes you need a pair of shorts.  Not a skirt, not pants, but shorts.  So here we are.  They have a lapped side zip.  I'm not kidding when I say I'm on a roll with the lapped side zip!  I thought that these were pretty cute with the pleats and wide waistband. Other options in the 05-2010 issue are to make them longer, add cuffs, add side pockets or welt pockets in the back.  They used up a remnant from this skirt (stash bustin'!).  A note about the skirt: I've decided that the skirt is a little looser than I'd like and have been testing out other pencil skirt patterns... none of them I like so far.  Any suggestions?

And a bonus post, as I was trying to figure out what kind of top to wear with these shorts (the teal peplum just doesn't look right with the pleats of these shorts)  The top is Rachel Comey, Vogue 1170.

Baby elephants, Simplicity 2921

It's been stressful at work with a high maintenance client.  So much so that one of my colleagues jokes, "Melissa, I'm not going to have a cow, I'm going to have an elephant!"  Hence, the idea for baby elephants.  I figured this would be an easy gag gift, as Simplicity patterns were on sale last weekend for $0.99, and I had the gray flannel left over from pajama pants I made for Lee (sorry, I've been terrible at blogging, even something as easy as pajama pants.)

I chose this pattern because it had more than two pattern pieces.  McCall has a toy elephant pattern, and there's another Simplicity elephant pattern as well, but when I looked at them, I figured they would be hard to shape because they only have two pieces. 

When I made the first elephant, Lee said immediately snatched him away and named him Elvis.  He's on the left.  So I had to make another one for my colleague.  He's on the right.  Lee's calling him Chunk because he's so plump. 

Elvis was going to be completely scrap (he was stuffed with Thinsulate batting left over from making a winter coat for another friend a few years ago) but I had to buy new polyfill stuffing for the new elephant.  Now I have half a bag of stuffing leftover, and no one else to make elephants for!

Surprisingly, the polyfill was harder to stuff with than the batting.  The newer elephant ended up plumper than Elvis, and Lee insists I must open Elvis up to stuff him more.

L-R: Elvis, Chunk.  Note I did not fold Elvis' ears over.  This means that you can flop his ears towards his face, which Lee likes doing.  Not an intentional design decision, but one that turned out well.

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Awww.

In all, this is a pretty easy pattern to make up.  Most of the work is stuffing the darned thing, and if you don't go gangbusters like I did on Chunk it shouldn't take the better part of an hour to stuff and suture one up.  Cutting and sewing took only an hour and a half, some of the seams are fiddly because the pieces are so small, but this is a satisfying thing to sew up.  I'm impressed with this design - I did not expect their little faces to fill out so cutely!

Panel print statement shirt

I've been sewing, but not blogging about it.  I'm mixing it up by sewing basics and fun stuff by trying things that I've wanted to sew for a while.  Here is one of them, Burda 03-2006-106, a blouse with knife pleats.  I wondered what the fit would be like, and as I sewed it found myself wishing the peplum were a little more pronounced.  I used a panel print from Fabric Mart (sorry, all gone!) that I bought last year when feeling DVF inspired (who uses an abstract print better than the Furstenburg?) and decided to try it out with this pattern.  About half way through I wasn't so sure I liked the result, as it seemed a little too symmetric for what I was going for, but I think I will still wear this. 

There's a lot happening here.  Pleats!  Front band!  Arm band! Buttons! Abstract print!

Burda 03-2006-106 in an abstract panel print.  The sleeves are just the right size, not too big and not too tight.

A front view, with a new pair of pants.  I sewed up Vogue 1051 again, in doubleknit from Gorgeous Fabrics (again, sold out, and rightly so... it is awesome.)

Side view Burda 03-2006-106 and Vogue 1051.

Back view, not sure what the pulling at the collar is.  There are no crimps in real life.

And, I finally figured out how to keep the hook and eyes in place.  Instead of completely trimming off the right waistband, I kept it so that I could add an internal button.  Very comfortable!

Burda 03-2006-106 line drawing.  I have been puzzling over that front piece (#1) for years!

The sincerest form of flattery

A few weeks ago a coworker said about this dress, "Great color!"  Today, I saw her wearing this dress.  You can also get one, it's on sale for 30% off full price at J. Crew.  No, I did not gloat!  I praised her on her good taste.  After all, I was wearing my dress too today.  We were dress twins.

A little retrospective

All the sewing recaps that I've seen in blogland have made me think a little bit about my sewing (and blogging.)  My blogging has really dropped off in the last year or two, as has my sewing.  I don't feel that same desperate, "I need this right now" that I used to feel when I first started sewing. I don't have a lot of clothes, but am pretty happy with what I have.  I am OK with a project taking a few weeks, and (shockingly) have picked up a bit of a muslin habit.  Almost everything I've sewn, I've worn regularly.  I've worn this pair of wool doubleknit pants to death.  I mean, it would be obscene if I didn't wear black underwear when I wear these pants.  That's what I mean when I've Worn Them To Death.

Black skinnies in doubleknit wool.  They go with everything.

There are several things I've sewn that I have never worn or only worn once or twice.  Some have not made it to this blog (and I want to get better at recording what I sew, but time is always escaping me!)  I think that sewing is now more about the process, and I've really slowed down for quality rather than rushing through.

I really enjoyed making this Vivienne Westwood inspired vest, but never wore it aside from the blog post.  I have, however, worn the jeans in the photo so much that I didn't realize that they had once been so dark.  It may be time to make a new pair!

Not sure why I am making this face.  I really like this top and wish I could find a reason to wear it!

On the flip side, I hated sewing this and I hate wearing it.  Why did it have to photograph so well?  It looks great, but is so uncomfortable to wear because there is no stretch and I cut it slightly off grain.  So it doesn't move at all with you, and kind of twists around you as you're wearing it.  Double negative, as far as I'm concerned.  After one wear, the seams are ripping the fabric apart and I just admire it hanging in my closet.  I can't tell whether I admire the fabric, my stubborn will to finish such a fussy project, or the want for this to have worked out.

These top tops may have been flops for me.  But while I've learned that it's fun to sew unique items, I get the most wear out of serial projects.  Over the last year I've finessed my button down shirt pattern until it fits just as I want it to, and am on the lookout for a new pant pattern that will work.  While I thought that the skinnies (see the black pair above) would be my forever go-to, I've learned that it requires a very stretchy fabric to work.   I made this pair of turquoise pants from the same pattern and only wore them a handful of times because the fabric was too unforgiving to wear in such a narrow cut.

Right now I am working on another pair of black doubleknit pants (this pair is bootcut, but I am thinking to make another skinny pair before my favorites completely die), and after that will be a robe (by request) for Lee.  I'm not sure what else is on my docket for the year, sewingwise.  I probably need to sew some new basics, but who really wants to do that?  I bought a lot of dress weight cottons last summer, with the idea of making lots of sundresses (I think you know how that worked ou!) so maybe I will get on it this year...

Vogue 1194: a bright pink dress

Are you blinded by the snow outside the window in my photos?  I've actually been sewing a bit last month and this month, but haven't taken any photos because the days are so short I'm not home to enjoy any sunlight.  Today Lee snow widowed me (it's our first major snow) to ski in New Hampshire and I got to finish this dress while sipping tea and running a period romance in the background.  I love Helena Bonham Carter movies, and now recommend Wings of the Dove.  It's a little more twisted than you would expect, certainly not a Sense and Sensibility or Pride and Prejudice!

And well, here is my new dress.  It's made from a pink rayon doubleknit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  It pressed wonderfully, but if you look closely you will see some kind of salt residue from my iron on the front.  I need to figure out how to get rid of that.  The doubleknit is wonderful to wear, but I think I would make this dress again in a lighter knit.  There are several points where you are sewing through 6 layers of fabric and I really had to wrestle with my machine to make it work.

Vogue 1194 side.  Isn't the perspective a little quirky?  It looks like the chair is twice my size!

Vogue 1194 back

Vogue 1194 front.  I've never realized this before but I think I have a slight forward right shoulder.

This is another pattern that I've graded down to a size 6, and I made a muslin of the bodice only.  From there I figured it would fit and am pretty happy with the result.  The dress is a very easy one to wear with a full skirt -- I left out the pockets but if you added them this would be a nice casual dress to wear with heavy tights or leggings and flat boots (and I am on the lookout for some cute flat boots!)

And if you'd like to watch a preview for Wings of the Dove...

This is probably my last post of the year.  I've enjoyed the sewing recaps that I've seen many of you, my sewing friends, post on your blogs in the last few days.  I look forward to seeing more of your projects in 2013!