Channeling 1968

When I put this outfit on, Lee asked me if I'm trying to bring the late 60s back. The top is Simplicity 2365, and it's a touch big on me. The shoulders fit fine but there's a lot of ease throughout. I really should have cut a size or two smaller (I was debating a size 6) but cut the size 10 because I was worried that if I went according to the pattern measurement instead of envelope measurement I wouldn't be able to pull it over my head. And then I remembered that I rarely unbutton my button down shirts (I am about as lazy as it gets) and I can pull those on just fine. So I am going to size down 2 sizes the next time that I make this top.

The pencil skirt is Burda 11/2005 104, which I shortened quite a bit and added a  vent to the back.  I can't believe I had to dig that far back into my magazine archive to find a plain pencil skirt with a waistband, but it is what it is.  The skirt fabric is a textured cotton twill from FFC,  and the top is made from a mystery voile (poly? cotton?) from Sewfisticated Fabrics in Somerville.  I bought it intending to make a dress, but here I am about 2 years later with a shirt.  If I had a nickel for every time I change plans for a fabric... I'd be doing pretty well!

Aside from size, I really like the design of this shirt and am pretty sure I'll make another.  The tucks and 3/4 length sleeves are a nice feminine combination.

My mother always told me to tuck in my shirt.  And while it doesn't look so bad from the front...

Oy, does she have a case from the side.

Inspired by Vivienne Westwood: Burda 08-2010-107

I love this skirt and want to wear it all the time.  It's everything that I love about sewing: instant gratification due to quick construction and good fit.  This skirt takes 2.5 hours to complete, from laying out the pattern to finishing the hem.  It has an elastic waistband, and I left the pockets out.  The decision to leave the pockets off wasn't so much a design decision as it was a wearing decision.  I've found that side seam pockets on skirts tend to gape open and I've been sewing them shut on other skirts.  I figured I would save the time of having to do that in the future.

The skirt is tapered and has a large overlap in the front.  When I saw the design in the magazine I was a bit unsure that this would be wearable because of the huge overlap -- I was sure it would turn into a shapeless mess.  My muslin proved me wrong and I went ahead with my Shetland wool from Fabricmart.

I shortened the skirt by 1" and think the length is still office suitable without being dowdy.  I want to wear this skirt every day!

Almost matched plaids.

Better matched plaids.

I cut the back on the bias, to try to match plaids and to avoid the coffin look.

Here is the inspiration in bright red tartan, the Vivienne West Cosmopolitana skirt.  As you can see, the back has deep pleats, but I didn't try to replicate them.

And there are pockets, as you can see in the photo on the left.  Below is the line drawing, which you can see is a pretty close approximation.

Burda 08-2010-107 line drawing

What I sewed this summer, part 1: 11-2008-104

This summer, in between complaining about the heat and sweating, I did a little bit of sewing.  I made this skirt in July, and have been happily wearing it.  It wasn't until I was sewing the godets in the side that I realized I'd forgotten to cut out the top ruffle (the ruffle is a double layer of godets) but I don't miss it.  I sized the pattern down to a 36, but I think I could have sewn a 38, this is quite fitted and pencil like except for the godets which give the skirt and interesting shape and movement.

11-2008-104B, in a crepe gabardine

Here is my version, in a lightweight wool novelty weave.  The texture of the wool makes the skirt interesting but isn't distracting.  I am wearing Simplicity 2603, the wrap cardigan, with it.

Rodarte inspired: Burda 09-2010-112B

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony draped skirt, in linen gauze.

You can pick up your Rodarte skirt (on sale for a reasonable $134.40, down from $448, heh) at Shopbop or you can make the at-home Burda version.  Burda printed a similar pattern in 09-2010.  Behold, 09-2010-112A and 09-2010-112B.

Burda 09-2010-112A and B, top version in jacquard, bottom version in silk batiste.  Why must Burda make the samples in fabric that makes seeing the details so difficult?

 And my version, in tropical weight glen plaid wool.  I'm pretty happy with the shape.  I cut a size halfway between 34 and 35, and shortened all pieces by 2".  The waistband is a grosgrain ribbon, which was the easiest waistband application ever.  I don't know why I've never made this kind of waistband before!

Believe it or not, the floor is not crooked in my new apartment.

Now I want a crisp white shirt.

These photos show the shape of the skirt a little better.  The design is interesting, as in there are no side seams.  The outer shell of the skirt is cut as two sides that overlap in the front.  The skirt has what Burda is calling an underskirt, which is to be cut from the fashion fabric.  I substituted stretch lining instead, and in hindsight I wouldn't have shortened it by 2 inches.  There isn't any easy way to anchor it to the outer shell, which doesn't have side seams, so it rides up a bit.

This is the only seam in the outer shell.

Underskirt.  It's not going to be seen, and having it 2" longer would have been good.

Robin's egg blue skirt: Burda 10-2010-115

Big news: I'm moving out of my little shoebox in two weeks.  This will probably be the last thing I sew here.  The fabric is a pastel blue wool gabardine that wrinkles like nobody's business.  It was left over from a failed project and has been in my stash for more than 6 years... surely, its age has nothing to do with its wrinkliness.  I really did press this!  Until I saw the photos, I thought I was still crisp and ironed!  The skirt was an instant gratification project (start to finish in 3 hours) and is a near perfect replacement of this cotton pique skirt (same color) that I spilled tea on.  That skirt just wasn't meant to be... it started off life with stains from the pocket lining fabric and then was permanently ruined by tea.

Here is my new skirt, which unlike the first skirt sits slightly below the waist.  Here is Burda's magazine shot.  It's a cute skirt, but they must not really want you to see what it looks like because the model is seated.

Burda 10-2010-115

The skirt comes in two lengths, 17" and 19".  I could have shortened it to be a mini on me, but to keep it more office appropriate I made the 17" version without alterations.  I generally like my skirts a little above the knee to offset my shortness, so this is perfect.  This is a size 36. 

Front view.  I did not know there was a huge wrinkle above my right knee until looking at this photo.

Side view.  I'm pretty sure this isn't poofy, I just have weird posture in this picture.

Back with lapped zipper.

Fuchsia wool flannel skirt, Burda 06-2010-112

I mentioned having made 2 purple skirts in my last post.  I didn't realize I had so much purple fabric, or realize that I'd made 2 purple skirts until I'd gotten halfway through this one.  It's made from a Vera Wang fuchsia wool flannel that I got on crazy sale last winter for, like, $1.99.  This skirt uses less than a yard so I have a little bit of this stuff left over.  Maybe it will be a hat?  It was dreamy to sew with, it really pressed nicely and didn't slide around or misbehave.  The Slapdash Sewist also bought some of this in that same sale, and made this lovely fitted jacket with her piece.  One of the things that I like about sewing is the possibilities that can come out of a piece of fabric, and seeing what other people do with the same material as me.

I really wanted to wear it today, but it was really warm.  Of course I also wanted to wear boots.  All of this was too much bundling for the unseasonable 70F (that's about 23C for my non-U.S. friends!) weather we had today.  I'm not complaining though, because I'm not looking forward to a return to the normal cold weather we have at this time of year!  I ended up wearing a cotton tank I'd made with Simplicity 2593 with it. 

The pocket lining peeks out.  I'm thinking to bar tack either to top or bottom of the pockets, but haven't decided which would be better.

I used a lapped zipper in the back with hook and eye on the waistband.  One day I might try doing the lapped zipper with the waistband as well.

I'm actually surprised that this design works with a wool flannel.  Eugenia used a linen for her version, and I was afraid that this would turn out stiff.  Not a completely irrational fear as I have experience with cartoonish skirts. 

I have Eugenia to thank for tuning me into this skirt.  It doesn't look so great in the magazine photo.

Burdastyle 06-2010-112 line drawing

You can probably tell immediately that one of the things I changed in my version of this skirt was to leave off the patch pocket.  I was going to put it on, but because I shortened the hemline by 2 inches (I typically petite skirts and pants by 2 inches) the pocket looked enormous even though I had petite-d that by one inch as well.  Because the flannel was so thick the pocket just wasn't going to work.  I think my skirt looks all the better without it.  (Another thing that the thick flannel wasn't going to work for was folding the hem band over, so I cut a lining piece and turned and stitched it in the ditch from the right side.)  At first I thought I shouldn't have petite-d the skirt so that it would be close to knee length and more suitable for winter wear but (a) what's done is done, and (b) I'm happy with it.  The other thing I did was add a rayon lining using this Threads tutorial called "Adding a Lining to Your Custom-Pleated Skirt".  It was super easy, but I think that because only the waistband is pleated rather than the hem line being pleated as well, the lining is too big.  It tends to peek out when I sit.

Brocade mini skirt, Burda 02/2010 104

I've been sewing but I haven't been blogging about it, I'll have more posts coming soon.  This is one of two purple skirts I've made -- I realized I had no Fall or Winter skirts.  A travesty I tell you!  So I went ahead and made two skirts, realizing after I'd cut the material for the second one that I now have two purple skirts.  When it rains, it pours.

I wasn't sure what my size was, as in the past I've always thought I was a 38 and made petite adjustments accordingly or gamble over whether a size 36 would fit me.  I haven't been running because of an injury that isn't really worth getting into here other than I was pretty sure that lack of exercise would make me heavier and thicker.  It turns out that since I've replaced running with going to the climbing gym more frequently, I've gained weight but lost a few inches.  Who knew?  I took new measurements a few weeks ago and learned that I'm a now a size 36.  It pays to take your measurements regularly!

I wanted to test how a 36 would fit with no adjustments, and wanted a simple skirt that could use a cut of fabric already in my stash.  This is 3/4 yard of 45" wide brocade that I bought at least 6 years ago with plans to turn it into a purse.  File that under What Was I Thinking.  I can't imagine having a purse made out of this stuff.  It snags and sheds all over the place.

The skirt is fitted in the waist through hips, I ended up having to make the back seam 1/2" instead of 5/8" due to snugness.  I'm not sure if it's due to the pattern design, the unforgiving nature of the fabric I chose, or the shape of my runner-turned-climber butt. 

This is really shiny.

Front.  There are slant pockets with self bias binding.

Back.  I had no idea it could get so wrinkly without sitting.  I used an invisible zip.

Side.  You can see the pockets a little better

Inside.  I underlined it in silk organza.  The waistband lining is a poly lining material.

burdastyle's version in cotton.

burdastyle 02-2010-104B

Skirt fail: Vogue 1170

Don't let these photos fool you.  I chose the wrong fabric for this skirt.  It's a lovely tangerine colored stretch cotton pique that would have been better suited to a pencil skirt, fitted dress, or jacket.  It doesn't have enough drape for this skirt.  I thought I could use it because the recommended fabrics are lightweight wool flannel, lightweight denim and lightweight crepe.  I think the key word there is "lightweight."

What should have been a fun and flippy skirt is a skirt that is shaped like a fluted bell.  A full-bodied fluted bell that will not be moved.  The fabric is way too stiff.  The flounce in the back falls awkwardly.  On my skirt, the center of the flounce is inverted and the sides stick out awkwardly.  The envelope illustration shows that it should fall oppositely -- the sides should be inverted and the center stick out.

Betcha think I'm twirling!  I'm not.

Aside from my tragic fabric choice, I went all out in construction (which took a while because I was in and out of town) with bound seams.  I even did my best to find an orange zipper in my stash.

Still, I like the shape of this skirt and the seam detailing.  I might sew this again but in a fabric with the right amount of drape and a lot less body.

A tale of 1 fabric, 2 skirts

This is a story of Fabric Fail.  I bought this cool abstract print from an online retailer who will remain nameless because it's not their fault that this fabric didn't work out for me.  I washed and dried the fabric when I got it, and noticed that the black dye had bled out a little.  Because the print is so abstract, I figured - eh, annoying, but not the end of the world.

See?  The bleeding just looks like shadows and even though I know it's there it's really not that noticeable.  You can see it faintly a little to the right of my hand.

So I figured I would go ahead and sew a summer skirt with it.  This is the skirt I decided on, 111B from the April 2010 issue of Burdastyle.  I wasn't going to be put off by its "tall" designation.  I'm anything but tall, but I decided to trace the smallest size and adjust it.  My usually petite-ing (it's a word now!) is to take up a 1/2" between the waist and hips on Burda patterns, so because this pattern was intended for Amazons, I took it up a full inch between the waist and hips.

 Well.  That worked in theory.  I probably should have also taken a little width out of the back.  Looks good in the front...

It also looks all right from the back, but it it is way unflattering from the side.  I really thought that hanging this skirt in the closet for a few weeks would relax the fabric some, but I think the design was really never meant for someone of dimunitive size.

The second part of this story is where I still try to help this fabric redeem itself.  I used it for the pockets of this skirt, a tried-and-true pattern for me (110 from the September 2006 issue of Burda).  It has princess seams in the front and back, with small pleats at the high waist.  I made this in black pique two years ago and wore it death.  This is a size smaller (36) than my actual size (38), which sometimes works for petite-ing instead for of going through the hassle of adjusting the pattern.  This one is pastel blue, pique again.  I would love this skirt.... maybe you'll agree, looks good from the front:

The back (excuse my inability to dress myself, I must have left the bottom hook undone!):

And the pockets in the pleat front are great:

Speaking of the pockets, they bled onto the front of the skirt after washing! You can see what looks like gray smudges on the front of my skirt.  This makes me so mad, because I thought that all the bleeding was done after the first wash.

The moral of this story is: Don't trust anything that bleeds before being cut.  This fabric will be for muslins only from now on.